If you have never heard the descending twill of a canyon wren echo off the
slick red rock of a remote canyon; if you think that you'd enjoy exploring
800-year old cliff dwellings of the Anasazi Indians; if the thought of swimming
in a pool that has been carved an overhung waterfall and has walls lined
with maiden ferns and other lush greenery appeals to you; and if you appreciate
the company of llamas as they carry needed gear for five days of camping...I
have an adventure for you!
During the first week in May we leased three highly professional pack llamas
from Jim and Luanne Hook of Bluff, Utah, and spent five wonderful days exploring
canyons of the Four Corners region. Llamas, Hershey, Buck, and Dominic,
carried our gear, while husband, Dan, and I traded off carrying our one
and a half year old son, Josh, in a child backpack carrier. Likewise, our
Seattle friends, Ed and Mary, carried their eight-month old daughter, Ellie.
Our quiet followers quickly gained our respect with their smooth gaits,
willingness to follow our every step with a loose lead, wading across thigh-deep
creeks with no hesitation, walking up every bank and over every log, never
an unnecessary jump, and immediate responses to numerous commands. Our favorite
campsites were under large, sprawling cottonwood threes that lined the creek
through the canyon. While at camp the llamas required minimal attention.
Never once did they get hung up on the stake-out line, or on the bushes
or branches. They found small bunches of grass here and there, and nibbled
on alfalfa pellets and flaked corn that we brought for them. These very
in-shape llamas did not have a problem carrying 80-90 pounds. The are professionals
and adapted extremely well to the hiking terrain of the southwest.
The canyon country feels so alive in the spring with its vibrant reds, oranges,
and greens. The spring rains nourish lovely southwestern wildflowers and
pungent sagebrush. At every turn a geko is scampering for the nearest crack.
We spotted western Bluebird perched on a tamarisk while we watched an immature
golden eagle soar high above. The days were warm and we kept covered with
sunblock and hats to ward off the sun's energy. Although the fast-moving
clouds brought a quick afternoon thunderstorm, the cool evenings were silent
and clear, with the exception of hooting of an owl far off. We were lucky
to see a full moon rise over the canyon rim and hang there, illuminating
the canyon benches casting deep shadows at the bends of the canyon.
One morning we carefully choose our way to the canyon rim for an exhilarating
view of miles of beauty, solitude, and wilderness. On the horizon stood
the snow-covered Manti La-Sal mountains. Each day we would discover and
explore a different Indian ruin, mostly cliff dwellings. Broken pieces of
pottery, a well-worn grinding stone, and fire-blackened ceilings contributed
to the sense of life and a community so long ago for another people. I guess
that it is highly unlikely that those people looked down from their high-walled
homes and saw llamas grazing on the canyon bench below. But when I peered
out from the tiny roomed structures the llamas below me seemed to fit well
into the eroded sandstone environment.
It was both a remarkable athletic ability of these packers and their peaceful
nature blending with the tranquillity of the canyons that helped make backpacking
with very young children a fun and valued experience. Josh loved having
these familiar fellows around. He became their keeper, wanting to give them
their breakfast as soon as he awoke and wanting to walk them down to the
creek for a drink of water after they had something to eat. For some reason,
"Llama Buck" was his favorite. all three llamas allowed us to
bring all the needed baby paraphernalia, carry our kids, and hike in yet
another wilderness canyon of the southwest.
If you would like to receive information about leasing llamas and/or guided
llama trips in the Four Corners region, contact Jim and Luanne Hook, Recapture
Lodge, Bluff, Utah, 801-672-2281.
Sheryl Tishman, Sleepy Hollow Llama Farm, Jefferson, ME
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