This was originally written for a backcountry horse publication. I am
a llama packer, and I would like to share with you some of the equestrian
encounters my wife, our llamas, and I have had in the past few years.
First, I should tell you a bit about myself. I publish a newsletter for
llama packers. Before owning llamas, I owned donkeys and a couple of horses,
which I used for riding and packing. For several years after becoming a
llama owner, I served as the llama representative on the Gifford Pinchot
Trails Task Force, a multi-user group brought together by the Forest Service
to work on user conflicts and other trail-use issues. Through this activity,
I met a number of horse users, including Al Brenner, then president of the
Washington BCH. We agreed to trade newsletters on a regular basis. I have
found this exchange of ideas and perceptions to be very worthwhile. We are
all stock people, and although our user groups may have a number of differences,
we also have many similarities and like needs.
Unlike most equestrians, who go out for day rides, llama people are usually
on packing trips. Horses have an obvious speed and distance advantage over
most of us. We generally go 5-10 miles a day, although the odd llama packer
may travel 20 miles or more in a day. We are aware that in the hauling business,
we are the minitrucks. Llamas carry anywhere between 60 to 100 pounds; ours
usually pack 65 to 80.
My wife and I visited several different wilderness areas this past summer
and met many horses--and riders, of course. On some trips, we seemed to
meet more horse users than hikers. Most of the riders we met said that this
was their first encounter with llamas in the backcountry. Compared with
horse users, our numbers are few: There are probably only a couple hundred
llama packers in Washington. But if you haven't met one of us yet, you
will.
From my perspective, on the ground and leading a smaller animal, I have
come to consider horse-and-llama encounters as something to enjoy.
Most horse-llama meetings are noneventful, if not downright friendly.
We were day hiking from our base camp on the Pacific Crest Trail above Crystal
Ski Resort. A young couple rode up to us. He was riding a mule, leading
a horse he was training; she was out on her first trail ride on an equally
inexperienced horse. We stopped and talked about our animals, giving them
time to get used to each other for nearly 30 minutes--no problems. The fellow
even rode his mule right over to Shawnee to let them sniff noses. It was
a very enjoyable chat between trail acquaintances, and it was surprising
just how much we shared in that brief encounter.
Many equestrian groups seem as enthusiastic about seeing llamas as are most
hikers we meet. Several have asked for pictures, and others have enough
questions to rival any hiker! A number have asked if they could allow their
horses a closer look at our llamas. One memorable rainy day in the Eagle
Cap Wilderness, we spent a very enjoyable time around a campfire with horse
packers, swapping tales and sharing coffee. They had asked us to bring our
packed llamas right through their camp so that their horses could begin
getting used to the sight and smell of llamas. We we a little cautious,
but they insisted. And all went well.
The horse users who do resent llamas seem to be of the "old west"
school--they seem to feel they own the place.
The "cowboys" who were riding into Basin Lake from the Norse Peak
Trail could be heard yelling back and forth for several minutes before they
crested the ridge, fully one-quarter mile away. Later, as they came by,
I could hear one of them them cursing those "#$% spittin llamas"
as he galloped his horse and pack animal across the meadow. The tail end
of the party--one smoking a cigar as he rode and another drinking from his
beer can--at least were friendly and even took some pictures.
We've experienced only a couple of verbal unpleasantries in several years
of llama packing. One was from some old timer who obviously thought he owned
the trail. These people have been a tiny minority, though, and they do not
affect our general good feelings toward horse riders.
Some riders are fearful of meeting llamas
I know that some horse riders are panicky about the inevitable first encounter.
There must be some awful war stories floating around the barns. Some riders
expressed a great deal of fear when they first saw us with our llamas. You
should know that we always approach all horses with caution. Knowledgeable
llama packers try to make sure that horse-llama meetings are safe and enjoyable,
and methods for minimizing stress to trail horses are a common topic in
llama packing literature. We do not know whether your animals are trail-wise
and experienced with llamas and backpackers, so we try to pull off the trail
on the downhill side and talk to your horses as they approach. We will try
to notify you as soon as we can about our presence, and we often send hikers
ahead to alert riders when approaching a known hazardous area.
However, good trail horses often don't react badly to llamas. An example
was our meeting with the Forest Service people inspecting trails in the
Norse Peak Wilderness. Their horses had never met llamas. We were in somewhat
close quarters as we came out of Big Crow Meadows. They were proud that
their horses just took us in stride--no reaction to speak of. The horses
must have been well-seasoned, and llamas just seemed to be more of those
"other guys" to them.
If you see llama packers coming and you are riding green horses, don't hesitate
to say so. We will do whatever we can to accommodate you; we want all of
our meetings to continue being pleasant experiences.
Riders with dogs may present problems
We met one group a couple of years ago in the Douglas Wilderness that had
nine dogs with them. They were running all over the place and
we were anticiapating trouble. They made the llamas quite nervous as they
came toward us. The dogs did run all over, but went past us without bothering
the llamas directly. We were relieved when they were gone.
I also remember the first group that we met this summer. It was a family
of four, exploring the Norse Peak Wilderness. They were quiet and friendly,
and the group seemed like good wilderness neighbors--except for their over-friendly
and curious Great Dane. He was not aggressive or noisy--just curious. Llama
owners are very cautious about strange dogs, as probably all stock
people are. Llamas are very nervous about unfamiliar dogs and do not like
them around, let alone trotting toward them to get a look...or maybe worse.
And this one looked big enough to eat a llama for sure. The riders thought
his curiosity was cute and that he was just being playful. Our llamas did
not think he was cute. One of our llamas had been chased by an unruly dog
that broke from his backpacker handlers a couple of years ago in the Goat
Rock Wilderness, and I think he still remembers flipping at the end of his
tether.
Our other llama tried to get to the dog. The horse riders thought this was
cute, stating, "Oh, the llama wants to play." No, this llama was
trying to stomp him into the ground. Some llamas are so defensive of their
territory and personal space that they make excellent sheep guards against
coyotes and marauding dogs. Such llamas do not care whether a dog is a well-meaning
family pet and they will try to injure it if they can.
The other riders with dogs that we encountered in the Norse Peak area were
scouting goat-hunting conditions. As they came to our camp area, they saw
our llamas and grabbed their two dogs, tying them with pieces of rope. They
obviously couldn't trust their animals' behavior. After tying their dogs
on these "leads," they still rode straight through the meadows
where we had our llamas tethered and right between the llamas, who moved
as far away from the riders and dogs as their tethers would allow. It would
have been at least as easy for the riders to have stayed on the trail that
went along the edge of the meadow, and that would have given our animals
plenty of breathing room. Their choice of route was irritating. Were they
trying to make a statement to us? We weren't sure, but we did not appreciate
their actions.
We've observed that dogs seem to sense that their mounted masters have little
control over them. A friend had a dog charge his packed llama. This caused
the llama to break away and bolt. That, in turn, spooked the horses. If
you do ride with your dogs, please maintain close control of your animals--for
the sake of all.
Riders with green and spooky horses are most likely to have a scary
encounter, but even those problems can be minimized with good sense
Our encounter with about six horse riders as they reached the Pacific Crest
Trail near the Boullion Basin Trail junction was a little ticklish. Their
horses were a little spooky, and we could pull off in the brush only about
15-20 feet--and that was on the uphill side. Those who were in the lead
stopped or went so slowly, looking at the llamas and talking to us, that
the young kids bringing up the rear could not move past as fast as their
horses would have liked. I finally encouraged the adults in the lead to
move on so the kids also could ride past--I saw the eyes of their horses
getting bigger and bigger. The curiosity of the adults, who had good control,
might have caused problems back where we and the kids were rather tightly
bunched.
Some trail areas call for extra caution.
As some of you know, there are lots of places in the Crystal Mountain Resort/Norse
Peak Wilderness/PCT that will require all stock people to be understanding
and tolerant of each other--llama and horse, horse and horse, or llama and
llama. Luckily, we didn't meet people on the more ticklish spots, though
we did have a few encounters in some tight places. The two women north of
Pickhandle Point who were packing up to Snoqualmie appreciated that my llamas
and I willingly moved off the trail, on the downward side. It was a steep
sidehill, and it would have been very difficult for the riders had I not
moved off the trail--or had I not been alert to the possibility of meeting
other stock users.
We all realize that unexpected things can happen anytime, especially
with stock.
Later in the summer, I met the same Forest Service person mentioned above
on the PCT north of Dewey Lake. The two horses that had been involved in
the earlier encounter acted like veterans. No concern whatsoever. However,
the rider had a pack horse, who had never seen llamas, tied on the end.
I pulled my llama off the trail the short distance that was available, and
we talked for several minutes. The new horse did all right until the string
started out. The pack horse ahead of him, unmindful of where he was grazing,
got his head around the wrong side of a small tree and suddenly jerked his
head out of the possible strangle. The green horse behind jumped and broke
his tie. But that was all the excitement. He didn't panic. He was watchful
of the llama, however, perhaps suspecting that it was somehow the llama's
fault.
In the Douglas Wilderness, south of Chinook, I was on a day hike from my
camp and had not seen anyone for hours. I was surprised to first hear and
then see riders up on the trail and heading my way. I immediately left the
trail in a very easy spot and waited for them. They were out of sight, but
they soon yelled to me from behind some trees that it was safe for me to
come. They had trotted their horses up on the steep hillside and were waiting
for ME behind a small grove of trees. They were obviously nervous about
getting close to a llama and were taking no chances. As we walked by, their
horses really gave us a careful lookover, but felt safe from that distance.
The next day, I met a Mexico-Canada PCT hiker (averaging 25-35 miles a day!).
He told of meeting four people and some really spooky horses, and we were
able to confirm that these were the same people. These green horses were
getting their first taste of meeting strange creatures on the trail.
My conclusion about horse-llama contacts is that the danger is blown
out of proportion.
With the few exceptions, already mentioned above, our encounters with horses
and horse riders have been cordial, if not downright pleasant. The most
interesting encounter of the summer was in the Mount Adams Wilderness on
Labor Day weekend. We met many horses, but these six riders were different.
They stopped, took pictures and asked questions. After some chatting, four
of the riders rode their horses--who had never seen a llama--right over
to Shawnee. Always reasonably calm, Shawnee was getting a little nervous
with these four big heads looking down and sniffing him. He weighs only
about 350 pounds. The horses were a lot bigger than he! After a few minutes,
we all went our respective ways. I doubt very much whether this was the
horses' first wilderness ride. These animals acted like this llama creature
was just something else to check out.
All that both user groups need is common courtesy and good sense. It is
usually easier for us llama packers to leave the trail. Riders without pack
animals have often thoughtfully pulled off for our llama pack strings. On
a number of occasions, horse riders we met were very thoughtful. Once, above
Packwood Lake in the Goat Rocks, some riders took their horses over some
logs and waited patiently until we got our llamas through a very tight situation.
They had good horses, and in that situation, the horses' experience allowed
us and our tired, heavily-packed llamas another option. Courtesy works both
ways.
I and other llama packers may meet more of you on the trail.
When you meet us, remember that we will do whatever we can to make your
encounter with us as pleasant and safe as possible. We will make every effort
to ensure your safety. We know that you are quite a few feet in the air
and on a very powerful animal. We also want your good will. Our wilderness
experience will not be pleasant if yours is made difficult.
If you would like to llama-tize your horse so he (and you) won't
be traumatized on the trail, I would be glad to put you into contact with
llama people in your area. How about inviting some of us when you have a
get-together so we can help you begin conditioning your animals to ours?
You will be meeting more of us out there. May your meetings with
my people be as enjoyable as most of my meetings with yours have been, and
may we all have happy memories and good pictures to tide us over until next
season.
Noel McRae is the editor of The Backcountry Llama newsletter.
He and his wife, Georgia have Cedar Llamas Ranch in Kelso, WA.
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